On Saturday, Moose and I headed out from TW with guests on a morning drive. The couple we were driving out with had been in the park for a few days, but hadn't managed to see any of the parks' predators, so we proceeded out the main gate and up the Nossob road on Predator Detail.
We headed to the Leeuwdril waterhole, were I'd seen 3 male lions the evening before, and were successful in finding a set of lion tracks! We followed them for a short while, before we came to the realization that they were heading over towards the Auob road, and that the tracks had been laid down sometime late the night before, as we could see tracks of antlions and millipedes on top of the lion tracks, "aging" them for us nicely.
After a quick discussion, we decided to backtrack and head over to the Auob road to see if we could reacquire their trail.... and boy am I ever so glad we did.
Not long after crossing the dunes and descending into the riverbed we found a fresh set of prints - but instead of lions, this was a Brown Hyena that had ambled along the road! We followed these prints for only a short while before spotting the hyena crossing the riverbed, and managed to get a nice view of him as he emerged from the long grass on the far side of the river before he walked up and over the dunes and out of sight.
We continued along the road, and saw a car stopped beside a tree just 50m north of the Houmoed waterhole. When we pulled up alongside, we spotted this:
TIMG_6468 - Leopard on kill in Tree by
Miros Photography, on Flickr
Both Moose and I were thrilled at this sighting - both for ourselves (this is my first ever Leopard-in-tree sighting!), and for our guests! We had been hoping to find lions to show off the KTP's beautiful supply of big cat, and finding a leopard just put it over the top... not to mention one who was a) in a tree! b) on a kill! c) extremely close to the road, and d) so very, very photogenic!
TIMG_6470 - Yummy by
Miros Photography, on Flickr
TIMG_6472 - Om Nom Nom by
Miros Photography, on Flickr
We were able to identify this leopard as a female, and the kill as an ex-springbok (it took some time to spot the horns, which had been twisted under what remained of the body. We debated springbok-vs- steenbok for a good 15 minutes), and spent the while admiring her as she ate and fielding the occasional question from our guests.
Eventually, she ate her fill and moved down her branch a short distance to rest and clean herself. We hardly had to reposition our vehicle at all to get a picture-perfect view of her!
TIMG_6495 - Malevolence by
Miros Photography, on Flickr
TIMG_6506 - Alert by
Miros Photography, on Flickr
TIMG_6494 - Liiick by
Miros Photography, on Flickr
Every so often she'd prop herself up and look down the riverbed south, and eventually Moose figured out why: the brown hyena we'd spotted earlier was beck in the riverbed and slowly coming our way! The wind was in it's favour, and it had likely been able to smell the leopard and/or her kill, and was on his way to investigate!
The leopard seemed to get somewhat more agitated as the hyena came closer, and when it was still around 1k distant, she moved down the tree to be closer to the ground - at one point giving a guest's car a good couple warning snarls when they got too close to her point of safety.
TIMG_6540 - Warning Snarl by
Miros Photography, on Flickr
After telling them what she thought of their parking job, she moved around to the back side of the tree trunk, and propped herself down maybe 1.5m off the ground on another branch - sadly this time out of good viewing position.
Moose and I, however, were far more excited at the prospect of a brown hyena / leopard face-off to lament the poor viewing position, and we sat with baited breath hoping beyond hope that the hyena would come to the leopard's tree and give us the sighting of a lifetime.... and thankfully, the hyena didn't disappoint!
TIMG_6555 - Leopard Observing Brown Hyena by
Miros Photography, on Flickr
TIMG_6557 - Leopard Observing Brown Hyena 2 by
Miros Photography, on Flickr
The leopard was very obviously focused on the hyena as it approached, at one point standing back up to turn around and keep it in sight. The hyena, on the other hand, didn't look at all concerned about being in such close proximity to a potential rival. It walked straight up to the tree and began sniffing around its base - investigating the grass and looking for scraps - as well as peering at some of the guest vehicles (they really were a
bit close, but thankfully the hyena didn't seem to mind).
After satisfying himself that there was no food immediately at hand, the hyena turned and scent-marked some grass immediately below the leopard's resting spot, leaving a creamy-white pasting behind as it turned and disappeared back into the river and into the dunes.
It continues to amaze me the calmness the hyena portrayed. It didn't acknowledge the leopard's presence at all, not looking at it or in any way reacting as though it was there - even though with its excellent eyesight and smell it must
surely have known the leopard was there.
Once the hyena had left, the leopard seemed to decide that she had had enough with the morning's activity around her tree, and that it was time to move elsewhere. She moved down the tree, and gave us quite a glare - apparently, even though we were on the far side of the road, she wanted to cross and we were blocking her path! I got as far as starting the landie - worrying about a possible charge - before she turned and ran across the road in front of our vehicle, making her way up the dunes and out of sight.
TIMG_6566 - Leopard in the Long Grass by
Miros Photography, on Flickr
I'm sure this drive will stand as one of the most exciting of my entire stay here in the Kalahari, and an event I will be reliving in my memory for years to come!