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DAY 13 – 13 April 2011 Maroela

My neighbours played cards until goodness knows what time … at first “Oupa” was losing and his outcries about the state of play were rather loud to say the least. When he then started winning though, his whoops of joy were even louder

To add to my frustration caused by my inconsiderate neighbours, it started raining again. Oh joy!

After a not so peaceful night I left camp at around 6:30am. There were a few impala on the dirt road from Maroela up to the H7, then on the H7 I came across this chap still out from the night before …



I took the S106, Rabelais Loop road this morning but it was very quiet; that said, the bush was thick and the grass was very long. I managed to spot this chap, but had he lowered his head a couple of inches I probably would have mistaken his horns for branches and driven right past …



I headed back towards Maroela on the H7 where baboons were on the road, lapping up water from the puddles. I then took the S140 to Talamati and continued on the S145. Again, it was very quiet; that said, the bush was thick and the grass was very long.

It was a long drive with nothing to see except masses of spiders’ webs.



At the end of the S145 and finally …



He looked so content in his mud bath …

I headed north on the S36 then took the S126 Sweni River Road to the H1-3.

Hans had enticed me back to Satara with the promise of rib-eye steak for lunch! So it back onto the tarmac heading north where I came across this little guy who decided to cross the road …



… and this chap found some roadkill that was going to do nicely for lunch …



I got to Satara where Hans had the braai going. We had a few cold ones and watched more birds in camp!



Lunch was delicious and it was soon time for me to hit the road back to Maroela.

At Nsemani there were a few hippos, and the only other thing I added to my sightings list that afternoon were baboons.

Back at Maroela, all was quiet … but not for long; shortly after I returned, Oupa, his wife, grand-daughter, and her friend arrived back from a late afternoon drive and drowned out the tranquillity that is Kruger.

DAY 14 – 14 April 2011 Maroela

Today was a bird-day …

I left camp at 6:15. On the dirt road leading up to the H7 there were impala and buffalo.

On the H7 there were a few zebra dotted about. I drove down to the waterhole just off the H7 where I found a couple of giraffe and some warties.

The S106 was quiet (for me) … so many people had been seeing lions and cheetahs on that road. The only things I added to my sightings list for the day on the S106 that morning was a tawny eagle, and dwarf mongooses! (Maybe that’s cause everything was hiding from the lions and cheetahs!).

Back onto the H7 and I added a coucal (otherwise known as the Rain Bird … what a great omen!), and a bateleur,

I decided I’d head up to Timbavati and see what was going on around there. The S40 yielded steenbok, a tree squirrel and waterbuck.

Heading south on the H1-4 there was a hooded vulture and a white back vulture; also some buffalo and wildebeest. Far away in the distance I could see movement … I looked through the binoculars and counted FOURTEEN ostrich all together!

Shortly after that and a few cars were stopped at the side of the road. It was lions, a female with a cub; you could hardly see them though in the tall grass so I soon continued on …

Next thing …



and then a little further on …



Back onto the H7 and a stop at Nsemani to see what was happening there … hippos and crocs were about. Just shortly after Nsemani and I saw a black backed jackal … it was the middle of the afternoon – what was he doing out and about???

I returned to camp for a mid-afternoon snooze then went out later on in the afternoon.

I spent ages watching this little chap …





Then, to my amazement, from the H7 just before the turn off for Bobbejaankrans I counted another TWELVE ostrich in the distance! Unbelievable!

DAY 15 – 15 April 2011 Maroela

Today wasn’t a very eventful day … you get some good days, you get some not so good days; you never get a “bad day” in Kruger though!

I did the H7 then the S106 loop again this morning. I saw impala, wildebeest, zebra, 2 black backed jackals, a white backed vulture, ellies and dwarf mongooses. Back on the H7 and I added a tree squirrel, warties, baboons and waterbuck to my list for the day.

I took the S39 towards Timbavati and saw a few giraffe about. Just before Timbavati and a car was stopped … they were sure they’d seen something in the grass. They only hung around about a minute then took off. I decided I’d hang around a bit longer and eventually saw what it was they thought they had seen …



She only looked up for a couple of seconds then plopped herself back down.

I could see another set of ears twitching in the grass and stayed a while hoping they’d decide to get up and move off somewhere. After about 30mins there was still no movement so I decided I was going to move on …

I continued on the S127 to the H1-4 and added bateleur, steenbok and a leopard tortoise to my sightings.

At Nsemani that afternoon there was a fish eagle, marabou storks, woolly necked storks waterbuck and hippo.

I got back to Maroela and Hallalujah, Oupa and his family had left! So finally, a quiet night by the fire listening to the sounds of the bush!

DAY 16 – 16 April 2011 Maroela

I decided to forego the Rabelais loop this morning and continued on the H7 the whole way to the H1-4. It was “fairly” quiet … impala, wildebeest, giraffe, zebra, baboons, and a few white backed vultures. Nsemani was deserted …

On the S100 there was a bateleur, dwarf mongooses, a brown snake eagle, steenbok, waterbuck, warties and kudu.

I can’t quite remember exactly where on the S41 it was, but it was at a bit of a road that goes over a small stream of water. The “small stream” was more that than at this time of the year … hippos were wallowing, terrapins were around as were black crake, there were a few woolly neck storks and what I thought at first were saddle bills …



But then I realised they didn’t have the same facial markings as saddle bills.



I think they were black storks??? Any ideas anyone?

Back on to the H6 where there was a herd of wildebeest and a couple of ellies by a large pool of water …



This ellie had a distinct hole in his left ear …







Back on the H7 towards Maroela … a car was stopped at the side of the road and the occupants were peering through binoculars up into a tree not too far from the side of the road …

“Leopard!” they informed me! I was excited, I hadn’t seen a leopard yet this trip …

It wasn’t a great sighting, but it was a leopard!

He was pretty well camouflaged behind the leaves and branches, but once you spotted him (no pun intended!) it was so obvious.



I love the way you can see his tongue hanging out!

Next thing he stirred and looked as though he was getting up …



Hindsight is a great thing … why didn’t I put my video on or change the camera setting to continuous mode … ???!!!

I’m actually embarrassed to show you the next couple of photos they are SO awful and I could kick myself …









He leapt from the tree into the tall grass and was GONE.

I drove back to camp dead chuffed! I’d seen a leopard and it was a pretty good sighting (even though the pictures I got don’t do it justice!).

DAY 17 – 17 April 2011 Maroela – Crocodile Bridge

I didn’t sleep all that well last night … it was raining and the dripping from the tree under which I was camped on to my tent did not help …

From about 5am there was life in camp:- tent zips, car doors, mutterings, etc, (thank goodness Oupa had gone so there was no loud bellowing!). The rain was still coming down and as today was the day I was packing up and moving to Croc Bridge, I decided I wasn’t in a rush and just lay in my sleeping bag praying the rain would stop, even for a short while.

I was wasting my time … this rain wasn’t going to stop; it was that light drizzle that soaks everything – great!

I packed up as quickly as I could and just shoved everything in the car any which way it would go in. I decided then that when I got to Croc Bridge I would see if there were any huts available and if not I was heading back to Pretoria … “Confirmed Kruger Camper” indeed! Who was I kidding???!!!

I left Maroela at 8.30am and started the drive to Croc Bridge. I didn’t take any photos at all but my sightings list reads as follows:-

Dirt Road to H7 – leopard tortoise, impala, tawny eagle

H7 – wildebeest, zebra, bateleur, baboons, giraffe, ellies, waterbuck

H1-3 – buffalo

Nwanetsi –saddle billed storks

H1-3 – bushbuck, warties

Mazithi – wooly necked storks, grey heron

H10 – martial eagle, brown snake eagle, white backed vultures, giant snail, black backed jackal

Lower Sabie Bridge – Hippos

H4-2 – kudu

The light was awful for photos and there was just nothing that made me go “Oh, WOW!”.

Just after crossing the Lower Sabie Bridge and getting on to the H4-2 the rain FINALLY stopped.

I got to Croc Bridge camp … there was hardly anyone there …

There were some brilliant spots where I could pitch my tent right next to the fence ….

then again, I’m sure there must have been availability in one of the huts …

then again, even if I stayed in a hut I was going to have to pitch my tent to let it dry out …

oooh … decisions, decisions!!!

I looked at the sky, surely those clouds had to break at some stage …

I ended up pitching my tent next to the fence!

I decided a late afternoon drive was in order … the S28, a favourite …

This is what it looked like:-



Just shortly going around that bend there was a HUGE puddle. I slowed right down and was wondering whether I should risk it in my little Atos when a large 4x4 rushed straight past me.

This is the photo I took of my car the following morning …



You’ll notice that the driver’s window is clean … that’s because I drive with the front windows down … I won’t tell you what my face and the inside of my car looked like!!!

I wiped as much mud off of me as I could and continued on my way. I added rhinos (three sightings; 3 + 1 + 1), a dwarf mongoose and a martial eagle to my sightings list for the day. Again, terrible light for photos …

DAY 18 – 18 April 2011 Crocodile Bridge

I left camp at 6am this morning and after just a couple of kms came across these three ellies.



A little further on at the bridge at Gezantfombi there was this hippo making his way down to the water



An ellie having his morning drink



and this lovely little bushbuck



The H4-2 that morning also yielded wildebeest, impala, a bateleur, buffalo, giraffe, a martial eagle, and baboons.

I got to Sunset Dam where there were the marabou storks, crocs, and these beauties …







I turned around at Sunset Dam and headed back to the S28. I added tree squirrel, dwarf mongoose, white backed vultures, warties and zebra to my sightings. Oh, and did I mention mud puddles??? I decided to turn around and head back to the tar road in case there were any more considerate drivers (NOT!!!) like the one I met on the S28 yesterday.

Some nice rhino on the H4-2 (three sightings; 1+1+1)



Then I headed back to camp for a nice hot mug of tea … I was coffee’d out.

I HAD to take this photo of what Croc Bridge camp site looked like from the road approaching it …



Talk about camouflage, eh???!!!

Where had all those trees and bushes come from???!!! Anyone who’s been to Croc Bridge at the end of the dry season will know what I’m talking about …

I made my way to the kitchen with my mug and teabag. I pulled the lever on the “boiling water” tank and stone cold water poured out into my mug … There was a guy with a SanParks shirt on lolling about and I called him over to tell him what had just happened.

“Oh, the water heater’s broken” he remarked.

I was thinking to myself … “and why don’t you put a sign up?” when he continued …

“Just use the water from the hot tap …”

“WHAT??? You can’t use tap water to make a cup of tea!!!”

I had a kettle with me so wasn’t that fussed; what did annoy me was this guy’s “couldn’t care less” attitude … so much for customer service!

DAY 18 – 18 April 2011 Crocodile Bridge cont …

Anyway, after boiling my own kettle and making a proper cup of tea (even now, more than 7 months after this event, I can still see that guy’s face at Croc Bridge telling me to make tea using hot water from the tap!!!), I decided I’d go out for a late afternoon drive.

I did the loop by Gomondwane (H5/S108/S25) and saw some pretty waterbuck, a hammerkop who decided he wasn’t budging as I drove my car past him, and a pretty steenbokkie!








DAY 19 – 19 April 2011 Crocodile Bridge

I left camp at 6am this morning and was less than a km away from Croc Bridge when I saw a cheetah. Unfortunately at that time of the morning when I’m snapping away, if things look blurred I think it’s just cause I’m still half asleep. Unfortunately, in this instance, it wasn’t my eyes, I obviously had my camera on the wrong setting as ALL the photos I took have come out rubbish …



I took the S25 where I came across ellies and this lovely fish eagle …



I am racking my brain now trying to think exactly where this was on the S25 as it definitely looks like a waterhole … then again, as you’ve seen from previous photos, it could just be one big puddle at the side of the road!

Next thing, I looked in my wing mirror and realised I was being followed …

Day 19 - 19 April Crocodile Bridge cont …



The three of them walked right past the car then stopped just a short distance in front of me staring into the bush …



After they disappeared I continued on my way.

Further along this guy was perched high up looking for breakfast …



… and I came across a few nice ellies that morning too …



I returned to camp for a couple of Magic Milk Coffees and had to take some photos of this guy flitting from one leaf to another on a plant near my tent …



Late morning I headed back out again and took the S130 up to Lower Sabie. It was pretty quiet; vervets, a couple of tree squirrels, wildebeest, zebra, a brown snake eagle and a steenbok …

Back on to the H4-2 and I spotted this beautiful bateleur in its nest …



Further on, a Mummy with her little one ..



At Sunset damn the crocs and hippos were trying to warm up in what little sun there was …



I turned back to Lower Sabie where I stopped and had a bite to eat. After that it was the S28 back to Croc Bridge, stopping at Ntandanyathi where there was a waterbuck with her baby …







And I couldn’t help taking a photo of this chap …



The colours of those starlings never cease to amaze me.

Further along a solitary male kudu …



Then, not one but two Kori Bustard!








3 separate rhino sightings on the S28 (2 + 1 + 2) then another two on the H4-2 (1 + 3).

Day 20 – 20 April, Crocodile Bridge

I left camp around 6am. All was quiet at Gezantfombi …



I headed out on the S28; it was pretty quiet there too. I could see that a large herd of buffalo had gone by recently as the road was covered in fresh droppings. Next thing, I heard a noise that sounded like a little lamb bleating … I stopped the car and a few seconds later this little thing ran right up to me …



I think it mistook my little black Atos for its Mum! It soon realised my Atos wasn’t its Mum and turned around and made its way back into the long grass at the side of the road where it lay down and continued crying. Poor little thing … there were no buffalo in sight whatsoever. My heart was breaking at the sound of the baby buffalo’s crying; there was nothing I could do but continue on and hope that by some miracle, its Mum would soon realise it was missing, turn around, find it, and everyone would live happily ever after!

There were a few “big birds” on the S28; my sightings list reads “tawny eagle, bateleur, marabou stork, white headed vulture, lappet faced vulture and brown snake eagle”.

Back on to the main tar road going towards Lower Sabie and I was driving along at my normal slow pace. Cars were passing me on either side of the road … I didn’t expect to see much.

But what happens when you’re just not expecting it …..

Next thing, about 40metres or so in front of me at the side of the road I saw something … impala? No. A cheetah? No. A leopard? Yes, it was a leopard! Just sitting there at the side of the road staring across the road into the bush at the other side!!! I pulled over to the opposite side of the road and approached very slowly. I wasn’t quite along side it but could just about get a photo through the passenger window. I lifted my camera and … you got it … the leopard turned around and made its way back into the bush again!!! This was the only shot I got!



Still, it was a leopard sighting and one that I had all to myself (albeit for all 15-20 seconds or so!!!)

I continued up to Sunset Dam really excited … it’s amazing how a sighting can give you such a rush! At Sunset there were the resident crocs, hippos, and grey herons. Joining them that morning were a couple of spoonbills, a giant kingfisher and a giraffe.

I took one of the dirt roads after Sunset Dam and came across this gorgeous chameleon …



He was so visible crossing the road but soon blended in with his surroundings as soon as he made it to the grass at the other side





I don’t think I’ve mentioned the number of HUGE grasshoppers that were about at the time … they are up there on my “scare list” with vervets and baboons. As this one was on the outside of the car window, I felt brave enough to take its photo …



Mean, ugly looking thing, eh?!

Lower Sabie’s resident “Golly” was in his usual spot by the bridge …



Then at Lower Sabie in one of the trees near the bird bath was this beauty …



I took the S28 back to Croc Bridge, hoping that I’d find the baby buffalo reunited with it’s Mum.

I came across this rhino who was surrounded by 5 ground hornbill!





… and further along the road this big boy …









I’d marked the spot on my Garmin where I’d seen the baby buff that morning and was really hoping that I wouldn’t find vultures there now …

There were no vultures about; there was no blood; there were no bones. As far as I was concerned, it MUST have been a happy ending to the story of the little lost buffalo!

At Gezantfombi there were these cheeky vervets checking out the scene …



… and FINALLY, a Kruger sunset!

Day 21 - 21 April, Crocodile Bridge

My last full day in the park …and finally, a dry morning! I drove for about an hour or so on the S25 then turned around. Another cheetah sighting, but this time you could only just make out the ears and tip of the tail moving in the long grass. Impala, warties, zebra, wildebeest, giraffe, waterbuck and a nice ellie …



Back on the tar road heading towards Lower Sabie and a traffic jam … it could only mean one thing …

Mum was sleepy



No doubt from trying to keep her eye on this little lot (I counted 10 cubs in all) …










There were two females … this one had a little cub lying down beside her …



Dad was snoozing on the other side of the road …



Every now and then he’d raise his head and look at the cars around him … (It looks as though he’s injured his right eye …)



I slowly drove past, took a couple of photos, then continued on my way …

Day 21 - 21 April, Crocodile Bridge cont …

I continued up to Lower Sabie where I stopped for coffee. On the way there I got a cute mongoose photo …



After coffee I was back on the tar road heading south again when, like yesterday, something caught my eye at the side of the road. Surely it wasn’t ANOTHER leopard?

No, it wasn’t another leopard …. it was a cheetah! And not one, not even two, but THREE!!!! This time I wasn’t going to risk driving up to them to get a photo so took a shot through the windscreen …



It looked like two older cheetah and a younger one … I slowly approached them but they weren’t fussed by me and just sat there …



One of the older ones then crossed the road and the others followed:-







They ran into the grass where they found some perches that gave them a better sight of what may have been lurking in the tall grass …







They watched for a while but there couldn’t have been anything about as they soon got back down from their vantage points and walked off.

What an AMAZING morning!!!

I had a great afternoon drive too; will tell you ALL about it tomorrow!!!

Day 21 - 21 April, Crocodile Bridge cont …

So, after my AMAZING morning, I continued …

A lovely purple roller …



This lonesome ellie enjoying himself in the mud …



I loved the way he would just hang his trunk over his tusk as if it was just too heavy for him …



And then …..

I was driving along at a snail’s pace when all of a sudden the grass right next to me started moving and rustling about (I got such a fright)!

This tawny eagle flew up from right next to the road where I was and he had a python in his mouth!!!!!

I am pretty sure the eagle had killed it himself and it wasn’t a case of leftover roadkill as the python did not look squished at all and it’s tail kept moving …










What an amazing thing to see!!! The adrenaline was pumping again!!!

I sat there for over 2 hours!!! I won’t tell you how many photos I took, but here are just a few …







I was sure the eagle wouldn’t be able to eat the entire python which I’d say was just over a metre long but how wrong was I???!!!

Another eagle arrived and sat on another tree eagerly watching and waiting



but his wait was in vain as the eagle that made the kill ate the WHOLE THING!!!

What an AMAZING last day in the park … it certainly made up for all the rain!!!

Thanks Bush Baptist. I am interested about the snake … my Kruger ID book shows the python with a pointed tail … photo from the book attached below (same tail to the one on the snake that the eagle caught …)



and also says puff adders are usually between 60 and 100cm in length and I would say that this snake was over a metre long. I’ll see if one of the snake experts can let me know!


LOL!!! Yes, seeing that tawny with its kill was the icing on the cake that day!


Thanks Ray! It was amazing watching the eagle … I know I was there a long time but I was having bets with myself as to whether or not the eagle would eat the whole thing; what it would do with the rest; how many other birds would arrive at the scene and try to get in on the action, etc! I just couldn’t tear myself away!


Right Pumbaa, I couldn’t believe it devoured the entire snake! It really was thrilling!


Thanks Anri. As I said to Cheetah above, seeing the tawny with its kill was the icing on the cake that day!


Thanks MM, it really was so exciting to watch … obviously just for me though as the few cars that did go by weren’t all that bothered when I pointed out what I was watching!

Day 22 - 22 April, Crocodile Bridge

It drizzled again last night so everything was wet! The sky was dull and overcast and I knew there was no point in going for a morning drive hoping my tent would dry out … it looked like more rain was on its way.



I packed up, with not such a heavy heart as I’d had after my very 1st camping experience last year. I’d had a good 3 weeks in the park, had seen some AMAZING things, but the rain … nah, definitely not for me.



I thought I was a “Confirmed Kruger Camper” but after 3 weeks of camping in the rain, realise I'm only a “Fair Weather Kruger Camper”!