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The break on our verandah was highly needed and we decided only to do a short afternoon drive on the S145 up to Modwzeni but due to the season it was extreme quiet in that area but at least the birds did not let us down and posed in the best evening light for us. The ever present European roller



yellow-bill hornbills



as well as purple rollers allowed us to capture them



On our way back to camp already we followed the small path which leads you on the S145 a bit closer to the river but it was nearly impossible to do this drive for a bigger vehicle as the vegetation nearly overgrown this road completely but at least we could spot a small rabbit or better to say the eye of a rabbit hiding motionless in the grass.



A woodland kingfisher sang us a lullaby whilst we could admire a beautiful sunset.

Sunday, 20.02 2011 - Talamati


This morning was the first day during this holidays that we could admire a sunrise right after leaving the camp as first vehicle



and only minutes and some corners later the bush awoke completely.



Indeed not a bad way to start the day with as only a couple of moments later something black and white dashed like a flash out of the high grass on one side of the road only to vanish on the other side immediately. We could only look at each other and then the honey badger was already gone – sorry once again no picture, as these little chaps are far too quick.

The rest of the drive until we reached the S36 was more than quiet, however, we came across some white-backed vultures, a kudu lady, some glossy starlings and another brown snake eagle, however, all of them where either too far away or a bit hidden but for sure not this naughty boy who thought that at such an early hour all the tourists should still be in bed.



Gladly it was one of the gentler ones and only was in a hurry and did not bother us in any way, however, it was now for sure that we were totally awake after such an early morning adrenaline rush.

Next stop was at Ximangwaneni and there we found a peaceful spot where we simply could admire the morning whilst sipping at our coffee.

Plenty of birds could be spotted, especially this grey heron on the look-out and



on the nearby branches a flock of European swallows.



Soon we realized a movement in the water, as something grey half emerged and the resident huge hippo bull came closer, as he obviously thought we need a closer inspection.



The view from where we stood was so awesome that we could have spent nearly the whole day there and we even stayed longer there as originally planned.



Also a family of Egyptian goose as so plentiful this year was busy in chasing invaders away from their home



and even Mr. Hippo bull came closer – if ever possible – until he did no longer fit completely into the frame which does mean that he was extreme close as Timon had the big lens on this camera on.



After finally the last drop of coffee had been drunken and as we wanted to drive our obligatory drive whilst staying at Talamati we had to leave this idyllic place and turned into the Sweni drive but same was today extreme quiet and whilst we already drove this drive half way three magnificent and quite impressive Kudu bulls came into sight and presented us from their best side.



Also the common duikers were on this morning not that shy as always and we even were able to spot a couple.



Close to Welverdiend the obligatory savannah animals got more and more and lot of giraffes and zebras on one side of the road whereas kudus, some Kori bustards, wildebeests and even more zebras were busy in grazing.



Also the Carmine bee eaters got more and more the closer we came to the S100 but unfortunately the sky turned once more into a dark grey one so that the photo shooting of these colourful beauties must have been postponed to a later stage – Gladly we took some nice shots of them the coming days so enough red feathers to be presented later.

Although we took it slow as always in the park we reached already the H6 where we met the next tusker but as already said earlier most of the ones we saw this year presented us their huge grey backside.



This one even took a nap and so it took more than 20 minutes until he finally was willing to move so that we could realize that this left one was broken.



We thought that he may would come a bit closer but that was not the case as he even decided that he was still soooooo sleepy that he need another nap and he started to hide behind the next bush and as it looks as if he wanted to strike roots we carried on.



to be continued with beautiful colours and small reptiles…….

Nearly the whole road each bush was housing hordes of Magpie shrikes and even more hordes of European swallows in change but pity that the sky was still unpromising grey.



A great sighting on that road was a black-chested snake eagle but unfortunately same was not willing to come closer and therefore same could only be watched via binoculars as it was too far away, however, this relatively dark giraffe was close enough and stayed with us quite a while.



We already planned earlier a longer stay at Sweni bird hide today and whilst we reached the hide the weather cleared up more and more and the sun came out and consequently it got hotter and hotter.

The ever present hippos could be spotted easily without any greater efforts for our eyes – they even could be heard earlier than same could be spotted but we love their sounds and cannot imagine to be in Kruger without hearing them at least once a day.



Great was that we were nearly the whole time – must have been one hour – the only people there only an elderly couple right in the beginning who left quickly and a younger couple who only paid a short visit we were on our own. Also here we could identify a green backed heron hiding opposite the hide under a bush and a moorhen closer to the hide.



The hippos obviously thought that they need a change and suddenly they appeared with decoration.



A light breeze was blowing and it was a fantastic morning to sit in that hide with still bearable temperatures. Also our friend the woodland kingfisher was around on a nearby branch which it only left to do some fishing.



Also something red and moveable caught our eye, as a beautiful dragon fly was admiring that morning as much as we did.



The African jacanas nearly invaded each water lily leave and also blacksmith plovers, a single grey heron and a mini crocodile were busy. Later also a female bushbuck with its nearly grown offspring came to drink. But as the clock was ticking always faster in Kruger we had to leave as we already stayed longer as originally planned and so our stay at the N’wanetsi picnic spot was only a short one instead.

The S41 was extreme quiet until we reached the small low water bridge crossing the N’wanetsi river as on one side a Burchall’s coucal was rustling in a closer bush and to our surprise another dragon fly, now a blue one rested close to us and Timon already snapped away.



Now our heads and eyes moved to the other side and we realized something on a small stone in the water pond there but we somehow could not believe what we saw there, we both rubbed our eyes but it was still there and as we both saw it, it was no imagination. There on the stone, in the water the cutest and tiniest crocodile we ever saw was taking a sun bath with open mouth.



Mum was close by, combing silently through the water and eying us suspiciously. A pity was that the size of the mini crocodile cannot be shown via these pictures that good and it always looked much huger than it originally was.



All in all the junior was about 20 cm “long” and it is definitely still a long way until this little chap will be as “huge” as Mom. It was not easy for us to unglue from this sighting but we had to carry on as we still had a long drive back to Talamati but as the Burchall’s still was busy in whatever it done in the bush on the other side of the pond Timon could not leave without at least once pressed the button.

At least now we could carry on a bit faster than the remaining drive until we reached some of the small loops on the S100 was extreme quiet but there a grey heron was enthroning on top of a tree.



and only a couple of levels lower in the same tree an African fish eagle was eying up to the grey heron. It was indeed funny how the heron looked down to the fish eagle and the fish eagle up to the heron between lots of leaves and foliage.



After the dense vegetation in the South of the park we must say that we got shocked when we drove on the famous S100 closer to Satara as the grass in that area was already nearly gone. The whole area looked as if another Woodstock took place with trampled down grass and if any grass could be seen it was already brown and dry. Obviously hords and herds of animals already visited this area, had a great time and moved somewhere else in the park as we never realized the area around Satara so less of animals as this year. Please do not get me wrong there were still animals around but compared to all our previous trips if was indeed a big difference!

The sun meanwhile won the battle against the clouds and it got again hotter and hotter so quite numerous members of a huge buffalo herd which came across already squeezed under all possible acacia bushes and small trees along this road and you can imagine that every single piece of something which could at least offer a bit of shade was occupied.



But the buffaloes were so large that some of them had to be satisfied with a spot in the sun – good for our photograph hearts but pity for the buffalo



but in the end all of them found a place in the shade in simply squeezing a bit more together.



Obviously the lack of fresh green grass did not scared of the herds of zebras and waterbucks as there were still a couple of them remaining on that road and some of them even did find a yummy blade of grass.



Shibotwana was deserted besides the family of ground „tree“ hornbills which we already could observe during a couple of visits at exactly the same spot in “their” tree and also the ever present baboon clan were grooming around.



To be continued with an unforeseen sunset drive………

Meanwhile Satara camp was calling or better to say the ice cream there as besides the heat it got also more and more humid that day so we took a nice break under the shady trees close to the restaurant. After a while we simply had to leave in order to get back in time but we could not leave until we paid Nsemani a visit although we must say that we were a bit disappointed as no elephants were around as we already were looking forward in watching them again bathing in that dam but obviously there were still of lot of hidden puddles to be found in the bush after the wet summer as this year we never saw a single elephant in the periphery of this dam or they even moved to another area.

Anyway it was still lovely to be back at this spot and at least lots of marabou storks could be watched, as well as white-faced ducks, cattle egrets and Egyptian goose but after some time in the midday heat there we still had to leave and were again via the S36 on our way back to Talamati. Close to Rockvale an elephant herd came across but as now in exactly that area the bush was again extreme dense we only could watch only single ellies popping out here and there.

Close to Muzandzeni we watched a woodland kingfisher in a bush but same was not alone on its branch as one of these colourful grasshoppers came closer and closer and finally started to terrorize our woodie friend. It was funny to watch the whole scene as the grasshopper approached up side down the woodie but this critter is for sure not on the menu of the woodie as same ignored this colourful thing completely



and it even changed strategy as it was obvious that it was not feeling very comfortable in sharing its branch with a thing like that and it thought that maybe when I look into another direction I get rid of it.



It definitely did not get rid of the grasshopper but neither moved itself nor the grasshopper decided to jump somewhere else so the grasshopper took over the initiative and simply carried on creeping and crawling upside down over the feet of the woodie and both walked on their ways.

It was indeed a very funny sighting and as the whole scene took place in slow motion we again lost a lot of time and already decided that we will skip our afternoon drive that day and start with an early and comfy braai but as always things came different as originally planned and nevertheless we still had a couple of kilometers to drive.

Finally at Ximangwaneni we found our bathing elephant and same was so sunken in his bathing procedure that sometimes we only could spot a piece of ivory – everything else was diving – After and excessive bath same left and we only realized now that he was one of the guys with the larger tusks but unfortunately we only could get a picture from his right side – He disappeared in the deep vegetation before he at all turned around.



A lot of Carmine bee eaters also made us stop from time to time



and also the ever present European rollers throughout the whole park slowed us – the colourful grasshoppers are for sure on the menu of the rollers -



so that we only got back at 5.00 o’clock in the afternoon and everything we wanted was a peaceful and quiet evening on our verandah and an early night after the whole day on the road.

We just unloaded our car and wanted to start the braai when the Camp Manager of Talamati knocked on our door, introduced himself and invited us for a free sunset drive, as obviously yesterday a larger tour group occupied the remaining chalets in camp and made a lot of noise. Needless to say that we were extreme delighted and did not even think about to deny this very generous offer as moreover we somehow must have missed the noise.

However, this only allowed us some spare time of one hour to relax a bit and to download the already taken pictures to our laptop. To be honest we definitely did not expect to see much whilst we entered the truck as this area is for sure not a summer animal area and unfortunately was this year even quieter than the previous years. It was only the two of us and we were just about to leave camp when the family who stayed in No. 8 arrived which was also invited so in total we were now 5 adults and 2 children plus our guide from Orpen which called himself “Crazy” Kerrin and his girl friend.

After the obligatory briefing Crazy asked what we wanted to see and nearly everyone in the truck replied with “everything”, however, also Crazy informed us not to expect much as presently this area is for sure one of the quietest areas in the park besides one totally crazy elephant which terrorized tourists on the road to Orpen the last two days.

So to avoid Mr. crazy elephant we turned into the direction of Fairfield waterhole – The first half an hour it was still bright and soon we spotted our first scrub hare and a couple of double banded sandgrouse which was already our never seen bird No. 8.



Although Timon mentioned later that we obviously saw this bird earlier but thought it was one of the ever present francolins running around in suicide manner. I must say that Crazy was a very passionate guide and a strolling encyclopedia as he knows everything about the animals which came across. He even picked up one of the plentiful shongololos and explained in detail how you can decide between female and male.

Yellow-billed hornbills as well as baboons came also across but far too soon it was already time to turn around but it was also time to illuminate the flood lights. Crazy in front was operating one and it was also my task to use the other one. As this was our very first sunset drive we were very impressed how the bush looked like at totally darkness and we were thrilled as we always thought you will see in any event nothing and that it would simply be a waste of time but believe me we immediately changed our mind and thought it is definitely a must do to at least to participate in a sunset or night drive during our forthcoming trip.

With now in every bush and tree pointing flood lights we were already on our way back and I wished that this moment would last forever and was already sad that only half an hour remained until this amazing experience will be over. Crazy was eager in pointing his flood light into bushes on eye level and soon he stopped the truck and showed us a chameleon and explained us how to distinguish these little chaps from leaves – He gave us also the hint that they are easier to spot by night with flash lights or torches than by bright daylight.

Only a couple of meters further down the road he spotted the next two chameleons and after a couple of failing attempts we then realized at what to look at to locate the chameleon. Then I had my moment of glory when I spotted on top of a small bush our never seen bird No. 9 during this trip and on top a new owl specie for us – A White faced owl and this evening obviously a very cheeky one.



Far too soon for our liking the drive was over and with enthusiastic minds we said good bye to each other. However, it was now too late to lit the braai and so we had for dinner a fresh salad – the rest from the previous day - and some sandwiches. Very tired we only minutes later fell into our beds and slept like babies this night.

Monday, 21. February 2011 – Talamati – Satara

As we had today to move camp again we had a bit more packing to do as usually but with the usual adopted routine over the last 1 ½ weeks this was a minor problem. We soon hit the road again and believe me or not we did not see anything until we reached Ximangwaneni and we were a bit disappointed about the quietness. Please do not get me wrong we already had a very rewarding trip also right from the beginning but when we see nothing even no birds on that stretch of the road it is for sure more than frustrating. Therefore with heavy hearts we decided that we will skip Talamati completely whenever we will return to Kruger in summer.

At Ximangwaneni the grey heron was again awaiting us on the same branch as yesterday and today we could spot a knob-billed duck which at least for us is a rare sighting.



After enjoying the waking up of the bush at this lovely spot again we carried on and at least the sky was today true blue and the sun illuminated this beautiful magpie shrike on a branch perfectly.



This bird even sat still so that Timon could snap happily away and also this red-billed hornbill was willing to pose on this beautiful morning.



A red-backed shrike and the ever present yellow-billed hornbills were the only animals we saw until we turned into the Sweni drive where already kudus and my daily giraffe fix could be satisfied.



and also this white backed vulture was worth a stop as the animal itself together with the background of the blue sky was simply amazing



The ever present impalas never let us down and also the zebras were as always plentiful in that area. As we decided to do the same drive as yesterday we turned into the H6 but if ever possible today it was even quieter than yesterday besides the elephant bulls as they were cheeky as ever.



Hords of Carmine bee eaters flew around and this beautiful tawny eagle on top of the dead branch made me yell “stop” to Timon as also this sort of bird was not often to seen this year.



Timon was in desperate search for animals as his finger needed more activity and due to the lack of animals he even took a picture of this lovely acacia tree.



to be continued with more cute reptiles……

Our next stop was again at Sweni hide but before we reached this peaceful hide kudus and again zebras crossed our path



At the hide itself we noticed that the green-backed heron and the woodland kingfisher from yesterday were again present as well as the resident hippos but a bird we somehow missed yesterday was today busy in catching something yummy and green for breakfast – the African jacana



and a huge crocodile was already awaiting the sun on the red rocks in the background.



Today we stayed not that long as yesterday but therefore did a longer stop at N’wanetsi picnic spot instead where we spotted from high above a very skittish bushbuck mom with her little one coming to drink. The S41 was once more very quiet but a lot of impala herds made us stop from time to time to capture these brown-eyes beauties.



Before the low water bridge is crossing the N’wanetsi there is a small loop which leads you to a small view into the river – I am sure you all know this place – we watched for a while many, many little bee-eaters busy in foraging and one always flew back to the spot right besides Timon’s window and as same was so willingly posing that no one could resist.



Same flew again away and we were also about to head forward when our little feathered friend returned and proofed to be a real bee-eater.



Whilst now finally crossing the low water bridge we spotted on one side a common sandpiper,



a pair of pied kingfishers was also around but a bit hidden in a bush and on the other side another huge crocodile taking a sunbath.

All over the place the European rollers were flying high and low and this morning one of them caught a huge dung beetle - We saw them nearly eating each and every bug and insect existing in the park so they do obviously eat nearly everything which crackles when biting onto it and a bit juicy inside.

Soon we were back at the spot where we saw yesterday the little crocodile on the rock but before we could stop on the small bridge we had to pass a small water monitor as same just took a sunbath right on the edge of the bridge.

The water monitor made its way slowly into the little pond



whilst the first little baby crocodiles appeared on the scene and only today we realized that there were indeed more as the one we saw yesterday floating around in the small pond.



We soon got again excited as we never saw such small crocodiles before and this sighting indeed compensated us a lot for the quiet morning drive so we parked as close to the bridge as possible so that we did not block any other cars and we on the opposite were not disturbed by any overtaking cars. We even noticed a slightly bigger crocodile than the 20 cm ones.



Although this pond is for sure not that huge there were so many uncountable baby crocodiles visible that we could not take our eyes from them and gladly at least one always emerged very close to us so we on one had could have grabbed one or just snapped happily away.



For sure we did the latter – Another fantastic incident was that the dragonflies were again also around and today they even abused baby croc’s nose as a small island.



Timon and even I were busy in taking pictures of these little small reptiles that we nearly forgot room and space as so often



and gladly the babies did allow us to capture them from nearly every possible angle.



Also an amount of uncountable dragonflies in all colours were busy in flying from here to there





we captured again a red one – they were simply too beautiful -



to be continued with some amazing bird sightings……

and today even a black one could be captured.



Suddenly mom crocodile emerged too and carefully guarded whether all her babies were still around – This picture is not blurred we simply focused on the dragonflies on mom’s nose. It was indeed funny to watch how often the dragonflies landed on the crocodiles in the little pond and they for sure made no difference between large and small.



Whilst standing at this spot many cars passed by and nearly all passengers only took an extreme short look around and carried on. I am sure all of them did not even realize the small baby crocodiles and thought we were gone totally mad. Quite an amount of time we shared this sighting with another couple of whom the man told us that he is a wildlife doctor and that such a sighting is really rare in the animal kingdom even rarer than a leopard!



Nevertheless also for us it was time to carry and only with extreme heavy hearts we said good-bye to these little reptiles and wished them a long life.

But we did not drove far – to be precise only up the small hill back on the road from the small water bridge when Timon braked again – a majestic waterbuck was about to cross the road but he posed so nicely



and gladly without even grass or bushes in the way it was amazing to capture one of our all-time favourite in full beauty.



It was now nearly midday and the heat was for sure back after nearly one week rain in the South of the park but is was still far away from the 43 degrees we had on a couple days last year. We left Gudzani dam behind at least for today and slowly meandered down to one of our favourites roads in Kruger, the S100 – as already mentioned this year we had during our whole stay there no cat sightings and saw such less animals as ever before but it is still a nice road to drive and one point was clear the birds did not let us down. After we could already spot some zebras and a lot of colourful Carmine bee eaters we reached again the loop were we yesterday spotted the grey heron and the fish eagle communicating through a bush – today one of our favourite birdies was sitting on a perfect branch not far away from us and soon started its show.



As the woodlands are always very special to us we think that there is something magical between this bird and our aura as so many of them during various trips posed like champions for us



or it is simply the fact that there are so many of them in the park and all of them are born posers.



Sorry again about the amount of pictures but Timon took so many of them and I could simply not decide between them. As it was a nice shady spot we enjoyed it tremendously in the presence of the woodie. Only a bit further down the road we heard ominous bird sounds which we could not relate to any birds we have seen before so we drove excitedly closer and found our never seen bird before No 10 during this trip and another one which was always high on our wish list – the grey headed parrot.



They were two of them and obviously lovers,



as after we captured them separately they soon started to kiss each other but that was a bit too private for them and they hidden behind some branches.

As you can imagine that one parrot is already loud but two of them are even louder so we could not understand other cars who parked close to ours and asked what we were looking at – If you use your ears and drive with the windows down you would have heard them already!



I felt so sorry with these people as they will miss so many wonderful sounds and smells when travelling in an air conditioned car. I am also not that heat lover but would never travel in Kruger with windows closed with aircondition on. Anyway Shibotwana passed by and a lot of zebras



as well as waterbucks were lingering around this place and even another couple of woodland kingfisher, however, far away could be spotted again. Then I realized something red feathered on the road and I was already so desperate about a possible road kill but Timon already grabbed his camera and started snapping away and I gladly noticed that the Carmine bee eaters were only taking extensive sun baths.



There are always uncountable numbers of that bird on that road but it was unbelievable how many of them were doing this procedure but for sure it was another fantastic show and we once more got entertained immensely.



When we left them we simply hoped that they will not end as road kills by reckless speeders but we drove this road so often during the following days that we gladly can tell you that we never saw a dead one.

A lovely posing dove of which we are not sure about the id came across next



followed by giraffes and a huge buffalo herd squeezed together in one small dam in the first loop where we spotted last year the two lionesses – This spot is for sure spacious enough for two lionesses but for a whole buffalo herd – anyway the buffaloes looked as if they just loved it there although it was again a bit difficult to take pictures, as the grass was again so high and we only could see them when they stood up which some time they did and soon a lot of flies were buzzing around the buffaloes.



A bit further nearly right at the beginning of the S100 when you came from Satara Camp there was a huge puddle under a tree and this must have been on this hot noon one of the hot spots in that area as a lot of animals were around and even came closer to quench their thirsts. The first in the long row were a couple of impalas



to be continued……

but same were very cautious as they always lifted their heads and even looked into the same direction whenever a sort of noise reached their ears but obviously nothing to worry about as they continued in drinking only seconds later.



A family of warthogs was also present and was running around from here to there between all the legs of the antelopes.



After nearly all impalas left and only were to be seen in the background it was the zebras turn





and they were a lot of them which came from nearly everywhere so that the greeting ritual has to be done in quite an excessive way



only to be followed later by a collective drink.



It was due to the lots of legs allover muddy and the zebras even sank up to their knees in the mud but that did not disturb them in any way as they continued in drinking incessantly although some of them obviously did not like the presence of the other



but finally all calmed down and continued what they just did again peacefully together. Suddenly nearly the whole zebras in that area arrived and it was a lot of running around in black and white to be seen. We stayed already a while there and also other cars joined us too and gladly it was enough space for everyone and as the tree was huge enough shade also to be guaranteed for animals and tourists.



The same way the impalas in the beginning disappeared when it was the zebras turn now all zebras disappeared when a lone wildebeest bull arrived and immediately declared this waterhole as his own at least the mud was his own as he was repeatedly wallowing himself with the head ahead in the mud.



This procedure was replicated a couple of times with the whole body and legs in the air until he laid down comfortably with legs under the body totally satisfied with his mud spa.



We could have sat there until the evening as there was so much to be seen but as we were already the whole morning in the car we needed a break from driving and nearly sharp at 02.00 o’clock we entered the reception at Satara and only seconds later we were checked in and got our key for No. G161 for the next three nights. This is the very first bungalow in the G circle right at the fence and we soon packed everything into the bungalow and with a hot and well needed coffee we once more made ourselves comfortable on our verandah and watched the animals which walked by and enjoyed the birds which paid us a visit. Sigh! All the bungalows in the G circle got last year a face lift and with new tiles in the bathroom and on the verandah, a new interior inside and a fridge which is protected by a grid they gladly kept the old charm and as we always felt comfortable in these bungalows we now even felt much better.

Yellow billed hornbills, crested barbets a lot of doves and even a chameleon could be spotted whilst resting and from time to time general game walked by it was simply amazing there.

For our afternoon drive we decided to pay Nsemani another visit but as you may have guessed earlier this waterhole was deserted again – no luck here this year for us! As there was enough time left to even drive up to Girivana waterhole and back in a normal speed we did so but had to stop for another nicely posing carmine bee eater.



And you may have guessed again right the whole road until we reached Girivana was quiet again – This area was this year indeed not that good to us but as we had last year some nice sightings in that area we never gave up the hope – Sometimes you win and sometimes you lose!

Well, Girivana itself was good to us this year as there was a huge buffalo herd around with lots of calves in between and the whole herd was still in the move, as some latecomers just arrived and some that already had decided that they drank enough returned only to join the others again.



So it was a constant flow of buffalos criss crossing the street and also a lot of cars enjoyed this sighting under the shady trees here with a sundowner



It was a bit complicated to photograph the moving buffaloes from sun into shade and back but nevertheless we really savoured that evening sighting a lot.



to be continued…..

Some of the buffaloes were hurt with bloody tattered ears or a wound in the back but obviously it was nothing serious and I think that they provided themselves all these wounds as they often try to walk straight through thick acacia bushes regardless of the consequences.



Sorry again about the amount of buffalo pictures but it was hard to decide which ones to be posted as they all posed so nicely for us and



all of them behaved so very well but now it was also for us time to leave, as we were now nearly the last car standing there – It was such a sighting were you again could have spend the whole night.



With some last pictures of the fluffy cute calves we said good bye and returned to Satara

K0948

only to stop for some marabou storks and another spotted cuckoo which was a bit too shy as same only kept hidden in a bush and behind leaves.

Despite several bad experiences with the restaurant at Satara we decided to have again dinner there and I must say that this year it was not that bad and even the service compared to last year increased a lot. With full tummies and another wonderful day in paradise we only fell into our beds.

Tuesday, 22. February 2011 – Satara

Today, obviously it was not our day at least sightingwise, as this was one of these days were it was extreme quiet – unfortunately it was nearly the whole time as quiet as never before around Satara – but nevertheless we enjoyed our stay there tremendously and as we already saw a lot we never gave up in finding at least a new bird for us.

At least the S100 was not good to us this year as besides a lovely sighting of a family of ground hornbills which were on top a bit too far and too well hidden for decent pictures nearly up to the end we saw nothing. Then it were again all these beautiful carmine bee eaters sitting on top of a tree and it once more looked as if the tree had some beautiful red flowerings.



A zebra sizing the day in the golden morning sun



could not be left behind



but then we already reached Gudzani dam and at least the ever present hippos there did not let us down



and the view is always worth to drive up there.



Needless to say that we enjoyed our morning coffee there and drove again via the S100 back and what to say the Carmine bee eaters could now again be found again everywhere on the road but at least at this early morning hour not yet dust bathing but none the less always nice posing.



And also slowly this road came to live again as we now could spot more zebras and also giraffes but still a bit far away but the red-breasted swallows where not too far away and Timon once more snapped away



and took a lot of pictures from his feathered friends even in perfect sun.



Whilst we approached Shibotwana a herd of wildebeest was about to arrive and another one of these beautiful waterbuck males stopped and posed lovely in grass – Came it only to our attention of are the male waterbucks on the S100 more beautiful than the others in the parks or was it simply the lack of other sightings that we thought so?



Sorry but this woodland picture could also not be left behind



and another great encounter we had with this magnificent juvenile bateleur which was walking on the road from left to right and right to left and so on and on. Like a guard guarding the road and check all cars which came by.



Pity was that the juvenile gymnogene which we spotted was too far away but therefore the paradise whydahs were good to us this year and we could again follow one which flew from tree to tree with some landings on the ground but finally this always so busy bird sat still for a picture.



to be continued……

Not to forget the again always present European rollers with all sort of food and this one even caught one of these amoured crickets and you can imagine how long it took until same swallowed the compared to the bird’s bill huge meal.



As it was still too early to return to camp we decided to extend our morning drive a bit and to drive up the tar road and via the S127 and S39 which is normally always a lovely drive but this year it was deadly quiet and not even a bird close enough made us stop. After paying Timbavati picnic spot a short visit we were already heading forward and down the S39 and at least we could tick another never seen bird on our list which was during this trip now No. 10 – The African Hawk Eagle



and believe me or not also the very first elephant on that day appeared behind a bush. Another lovely and close sighting we had nearly at the end of this road as on some photogenic rocks extreme close to the road we spotted a couple of klipspringers



of which he was very curious whereas



his better part was a bit shy and always turned away from Timon’s lens.



Nevertheless both were extreme relaxed and stayed where they were and we enjoyed their presence as this was our closest sighting of this at least for us not often seen antelopes. Shortly after Nsemani more and more of the so called general game could be spotted and now even close enough for some nice shots



out of which this cute zebra foal was our favourite



and same flirted extensive with Timon or with his lens.



Maybe it was a little girl?



We even got stuck in a traffic jam this morning as right in front of the camp’s gate a huge elephant bull declared the marula tree which stood there as his own and that the fruits which already fallen down from the tree were not enough, no he even pressed his huge head against the trunk and pushed twice against it



and nearly the whole remaining marulas on the tree now fell down and he had more. It was indeed funny to watch this scene and you can imagine the commotion which prevailed with the many cars leaving and entering the camp and even the close by day picnic area made a lot of people come closer to the fence. For the elephant it were only a few steps and he even entered Satara camp but today the marula lunch was enough and after he picked up nearly each fallen down marula he slowly left and disappeared in the bush.

For me it was today a longer break until we left again for our short afternoon drive and for Timon it was more time to go on bird hunting and besides the always voluntarily posing woodland kingfisher Timon’s victim No. 1 was the naughty Crested Barbet which always jumped away as soon as Timon pointed the lens to it but finally one usable shot could be captured.



As much as the woodlands love our lenses as much do detest the crested barbets them. Another funny sighting was this red-eyed dove which was dust bathing right in front of our bungalow but it looked more as if this bird was gone totally mad.



After that well needed extreme long break we once more decided on the wrong roads again for our afternoon drive as we could not let our fingers from the S100 but besides some buffaloes, zebras, another paradise whydah, a even farer away elephant bull and this day dreaming huge crocodile nothing could be spotted.



Closer to the camp this year there were always lots of animals around and today this beautifully wildebeest sunset made us stop until we reached with only one minute spare time the gate.



After another yummy and delicious braai Timon and I decided to go on bushbaby hunt as we already heart so much of the famous Satara bushbaby but same was not there today. We started on the reception area and spotlighted into nearly each tree but not a single bushbaby was present but instead we found our cute sleeping woodland kingfisher friend and one tree very close to our bungalow was unbelievably high populated by acacia tree rats and after some fight with the spotlight and the lens some of the rats posed so cute for us.



Although this day was extreme quiet we enjoyed same again as we could tick a new bird and also a new mammal on our list and we already started to dream from a new never experienced adventure, as we want to give the Mananga Trail tomorrow our first audience so already very excited we went this evening to bed.

to be continued with our first Mananga Trail adventures…….

Thanks so much KTF hooked, flying cheetah, Crested Barbet, Bushbuddies, MM, granjan, Aat and Crested Val I will comment in detail to you lovely comments in one of my later posts

Wednesday, 23. February 2011 – Satara / Mananga Trail

Today we woke up very excited, as we wanted to do the Mananga Trail for the very first time and gladly it did not rain the last days in the Satara area so the trail was open but as same can only be driven as from 7.00 o’clock onwards we still had 1 ½ hours to spare so we decided to drive right after gate opening time to Girivana waterhole. The whole drive until we reached Girivana was once more very, very quiet and we were already a bit desperate whether there finally would be something to be seen later on the Mananga Trail but when we reached the waterhole itself Timon got soon very excited as he spotted an animal which we unfortunately did not see that often in Kruger, a lone black-backed jackal



and great was that same running around on the sand road leading to the waterhole so no disturbing grass or bushes were in the way but same was extreme shy and skittish and was eying us the whole time suspiciously but same stayed long enough for some pictures until it was time for the jackal to run away.



A short stay at Nsemani dam on our way back already we spotted two hippo mums with their youngsters relatively close. The both calves were lying with their heads on mums back and the whole bunch was still in deep sleep although it looked as if the little one was smiling.



Another Burchall’s coucal stayed long enough for some clicks



and also an elephant herd with lot of little ones in between came across out of which one of them looked already like an upcoming tusker as the tusks were already relatively long for such a youngster! Hopefully they are visible enough on that picture as the grass was once more a bit high.



The next sightings which brought soon a smile on my face were some little cute giraffes as long as you can speak about “little” from giraffes. Once more very close to the camp gate of Satara a couple of giraffe youngsters performed a show and were playing hide and seek with our lenses.



Same was so extreme cute with its brushy horns once it appeared behind a bush. The older ones were on the other side of the road in the thick vegetation nearly invisible but taking care of their youngsters. In this picture it looks as if the glossy starling is shouting down to the giraffe: “I am larger than you”!



The two younger ones close to where we stood were simply too cute to words



and for sure we could have stayed there much longer but meanwhile it was sharp 07.00 o’clock



and it was about time to book the trail and same was done immediately and uncomplicated. The trail itself costs R 460,-- plus a deposit of R 100,-- which you will get back after you report back at the reception after your return. A detailed information leaflet gives you all the important information how to behave on that trail and with exact GPS dates. The approximate distance is indicated with 50 kilometers in total. The first kilometers we had to drive on the tar road into the direction of Olifants camp and approximately halfway between Satara camp and the S90 you simply have to turn right into a fire break which is well signposted by a sign and our very first Mananga Trail Adventure was about to start but before we had to admire all the large zebra and wildebeest herds mixed together out of which once more the youngsters were very active in running around and enjoying the new day.



Finally it came our right turn right onto the trail itself and the first part of the road – if you can still call this a road – In the beginning the trail looked like that



The leaflet now indicted to drive onto that fire break until a water tank that is called Malihane and so we drove straight which was not that difficult as the tire track in the grass were the whole time very good visible. Very soon we nearly bumped into a couple of sleepy wildebeests which were very surprised to get company in form of a car but nevertheless only moved slowly or stayed where they were lying in the grass. They linger around very close to the trail and were not bothered in any way by our presence.



The zebras which came across next where much more alerted and soon reunited in alter position but for us it was an amazing photographic possibility with our beloved African savannah in the background.



Many more zebras appeared and crossed the trail right in front of our car although some of them remained the whole time very skittish and tried to hide behind anything which offered something green and dense to hide behind.



It was great to travel all alone on that trail and Timon decided to drive as slow as possible to admire everything which might come across and to stop for everything as we wanted to make as much out of the trail and to stay as long as possible on it. When the animals were not around the landscape or some specific points where the victims of our lenses and cameras, as this dead tree



and a bit further the grass on the trail was already that long that it nearly hidden the tracks which we had to follow.



Due to the clouds it was not that hot and bearable but the light was not that good but you cannot have it all and for sure we loved it not so hot on that day. Plenty of European swallows were following us and another amazing sighting was two white rhinos although a bit far away. One of them was still sleeping in the grass and the other one was grazing unfortunately in a very bushy area so no great close ups possible.



This is one of my favourite landscape pictures Timon took during our trail adventure – Sigh!



Then we reached the first quarter of this trail and the Malihane water pump came into sight which alerted us a bit as we now had to change direction not to get lost on that trail but before we did so Timon spotted in a bush close to our car another new bird for us – Our new bird No. 11 was a beautiful Namaqua dove which was having a break and gladly stayed for a photo session and still stayed there as we already carried on our way.



to be continued….

Then it was also time to change again the direction and start with the second quarter of the trail as we meanwhile reached the next sign post in form of the Malihane wind mill and there we had to turn right and drove straight into the direction of the S100.

Whereas close to the wind mill still a lot of animals, especially never saw such an amount of kori bustards together earlier,



also huge numbers of ostriches as well as zebras could be spotted at that place but unfortunately the rest of that part of the trail was so quite as the S100 whenever we drove this road it was even more quiet as also no birds could be spotted but nevertheless to be alone on that trail and to admire our African beloved savannah so close was simply amazing that the lack of animals did not bother us at all.

Finally the S100 came into sight and a bit behind Shibotwana we have to drive on that road until a couple of kilometers after Gudzani dam on the S41 we have to turn left again and the next quarter of that trail could start again which led us again back to the Malihane windmill. With the start of the trail also more and more animals came again into sight. Warthogs, waterbucks,



could be admired relatively close and also the vegetation changed a lot whereas we drove the first stretch through typical knobthorn acacia savannah now the bushes got more and more thicker and the grass was still high and juicy green and it looked more partly like a jungle than a savannah but I think the dense vegetation was caused due to the fact that that part of the trail had to be driven close to the now dry riverbed of the earlier in the year still flowing Mavumbye river and this is not a complaint in contrary so we could also smell and feel that sort of vegetation as well and it was also a couple of degrees colder than on the other part of that trail.

Then suddenly we both saw a movement in the grass and gladly right in front of our vehicle the hugest and fastest monitor we ever saw popped out of the grass.



Unfortunately the size of the monitor could not be shown on these pictures as it was but you can believe me a Komodo was nothing against this little chap and furthermore I also do not wanted to know what it had for breakfast



as its belly was touching the ground already.

Now we had to drive through fields of zebras, wildebeests and impalas mixed together spread all over that place



and gladly they did not bother about our presence.



Also the birds were now more present than on the second stretch of the trail and Timon had now a lot to do as first a nice sighting of a white-backed vulture on a log came across



and we waited and waited as Timon was convinced that soon same will take off. I think all of you experienced this already so many times and you are waiting that the bird will spread its wing and offer a nice bird in flight shot but then the bird sat endlessly and nothing happened and when you thought you might put the camera away for a short relax break it happened and the bird was gone and left you without any picture but this time the luck was on our side and we finally did not have to wait that long and the vulture took off.



Now even more wildebeests, waterbucks, impalas and also giraffes appeared more and more and also I did not want to withhold in sharing with you the view into the thick and green jungle which occurred on that part of the trail.



We meanwhile also drove already on the last quarter of the trail which started on the Malihane wind mill which we crossed already earlier but now we had to turn right into the direction of the Mavumbye Waterhole on the S90. The next bird which was worthwhile to stop for was another Afrian Hawk eagle



and drum rolls again same was also about to take off. Please also do not overlook its deadly weapons, the sharp claws which looked extreme huge.



A lot of yellow-billed kites could be spotted but all in all they were too far away but the spotted cuckoo for which Timon then stopped was close enough but kept hidden in a thick bush but peeped out of same from time to time



and once more Timon could be satisfied.



Far too soon the trail ended but we had a lot of fun and decided that from now on this is a “must do” whenever we will stay at Satara again as this was an experience we do not want to miss and besides only one other car which obviously took the wrong direction and somewhere faced us which could normally not be possible as the whole trail could only be done in one direction we were all alone. But the end of the trail does not mean the end of the sightings and right where we came out of the trail a commotion of lots of zebras and wildebeests crossing the street was about to take place and out of that the little zebra foals were too die for.



Especially two of them caught our attention as they stood the whole time close together both with the head on the back of the other, as often seen between zebras



but the facial expressions of the one which was facing us were simply too funny.





We stayed with them as long as the zebras and wildebeests were visible and then decided, as it was still a bit too early to return to camp to drive a bit on the S90 until Gudzani waterhole and first a nice Steppe buzzard could be admired.



to be continued…….

But the rest of the drive was once more quite although the viewing possibilities on that road were amazingly good and we spontaneously decided that this will be one of our must do drives whenever we should return into this area which gladly it not that far away whilst writing this. As planned we turned around and now took it as always even slower back to camp and now we even could spotted a lone steenbok but a bit too far away.

Our steppe buzzard friend was still on the branch where we left same but now the photographing possibilities were even better as Timon stopped nearly under the branch where the buzzard sat.



The amazingly beautiful raptor stared from here to there



and even we got a glimpse or maybe Timons’ permanent click click was starting to disturb it, as we realized that these guys and girls are not only brilliant with their eyes but can hear even as good.



Nevertheless although the sky was grey some nice shots came out and now it even started to clear up and only a bit further down the road the sky presented itself in light white – if ever possible – and the sun came out. For the whole remaining drive back to camp this fish eagle sighting was the only worthwhile one to stop for although same looked a bit tousled as now also a heavy wind came up.



Another stunning sighting was this tusker which besides MaMerle only offered his back side to us the whole time and again this sighting took place right opposite the entrance gate of Satara.



Due to the wide spread tusks he could might be Shibotwana which we met already last year but I am not quite sure and as already mentioned he was not willing to turn around but this was maybe due to the fast that he had some sort of stress with another elephant bull as same obviously had stolen some marulas from his favourite tree and he now started to run and followed the culprit which he caught immediately.



Normally known as gentle giants which also this huge fellow was both soon got along and the “thief” even came closer and soon shook his trunk with the tusk of the other. “Hey, Big Guy, only one marula?”



It was such an amazing sighting and we were glad to be spectators of this interaction between grey masses. Both tempers cooled down extreme soon and the thief walked off into the thicker bush and the winner got all the marulas. As if there is only one marula tree around Satara!



Now it was again time for a break and some leg stretchers and we walked a bit around in camp and did some shopping for our evening braai and even allowed ourselves a lekker ice cream on our verandah and enjoyed once more the birds and animals which walked or flew by.

As so often this year in that area our afternoon drive was not worth mentioning and besides waterbucks and buffaloes nothing new came across and with another yummy braai we concluded our stay at Satara as tomorrow we were scheduled to drive further North again.

Thursday, 24. February, 2011 – Satara – Olifants

Once more with heavy hearts we packed together this morning and after the usual wake up coffee with a last view from our verandah into the bush we headed North and as usual we decided to drive via the S39 – Timbavati road to Olifants. A first visit to Nsemani as well as Girivana did not reveal anything besides a couple of sleepy white backed vultures in a tree.

The S39 itself was this year once more deserted, however, this sighting of a tawny with the today blue sky in the background was stunning.



Lots of families of francolins were also running from right to left and vice versa and we had to drive very carefully not to overrun one of their family member. Between two families of francolins a lovely sighting of a ground hornbill family made us stop for a long time as all members were foraging on the ground and from time to time the already grown offspring begged for food and even got some crumbs and offered for us some nice photographic opportunities.



The closer we came to Leeubron more impalas and giraffes appeared and also another tawny eagle could be watched but farer away than the earlier one. Somewhere on that road a nearly full frame filling leopard tortoise made us stop again as we wanted to be sure that same reached the other side of the road safely.



Only shortly after the tortoise we had to stop again as we had to wait after an ant trail released the road again which took a couple of time.

As always when travelling on that road we had to stop for the famous hamerkop nest which is situated above one of the feeding creeks of the Timbavati river. Today the nest was even occupied by a family of ground hornbills which was eagerly running around from branch to branch.

A bit later a huge grey bum looked out of one bush and it took once more endlessly until the rhino turned around whilst simultaneously grazing. Pity that same kept hidden nearly the whole time we watched it.



Although we had not that stunning sightings this morning it was already rather late when we arrived at Timbavati picnic spot we obviously spent a lot of time with watching and admiring. Also the picnic spot was already filled with people and one funny incident had to be told. A woman was eagerly busy in taking pictures of a glossy starling at the bird bath whilst from her back the resident bush buck silently approached her and after the woman finished in taking pictures and turned around she got the greatest fright of her life as she was now facing the bushbuck and so she jumped instinctively backwards and so the bushbuck did. All the people at the picnic spot now roared with laughter and gladly she too – Her expression on her face was indeed priceless!

Ratelpan hide was our next stop and we already calculated to spend quite a couple of time there and gladly when we arrived we were still the only people there. In the beginning not that much birds could be spotted but the crocodiles where already plentiful and always very well camouflaged between the reeds.



After a close inspection we could spot a lot of these bugs hanging in the closer reeds



and also one couple of weavers were still busy in nesting as male as well as female were visiting the nest with food in turns. After they left the nest they always looked a bit disheveled which was not only caused due to the wind as obviously parenting duties are not that easy.



Another nice sighting was a red bishop but unfortunately same was too far away, however, due to the red colour always good visible even without binoculars. Meanwhile also more and more people paid a visit at the hide and it started to get a bit anxious with all the running around. From time to time also a black crake popped out of the reeds but same was always too fast for a picture as Timon was still focused on the lovely weavers which were flying around.



to be continued with some cute faces…….

Finally it was getting for our liking far too full and so we left and still enjoyed the sightings into the river bed but as you might guess already nothing thrilling was to be seen, however, the stop at each and every loop was still amazing and so was another sighting of a couple of Little bee eaters but unfortunately it now got more and more cloudy so the background was not that good as wished.



Believe me or not but one of the bee eaters had again caught a little bee in its bill but this time the whole spectacle took place a bit too far away for a nice picture but a little poser could always be found amongst them.



The vincinity of Roodewal waterhole developed again zebras and wildebeests and also a very skittish warthog mother with her piglets was a bit frightened by our presence and only allowed us one click and the whole bunch disappeared with their upright pointing tails.



In one of the last loops on that road we watched a “real” waterbuck lady crossing a remaining puddle



and nearly at the end of the road where you have to drive between one of the greatest acacia fields in the park before the mopane bushes start to predominate plenty of giraffes where found allover that place munching happily away. It was so nice to watch these lovely animals.



Although today this road was quiet it is for sure one of our favourite roads in Kruger and if you will be lucky on that road nearly every sighting could be possible!

A short visit on the high water bridge crossing the Olifants is always a must and it was great to stretch again the legs but as soon as the baboons owing this bridge started to become a bit annoying we carried on and decided to drive via the longer way, via the S89/S90, to pay also a visit to the low water bridge close to Balule.

Meanwhile it was midday and it was getting hotter and hotter and we expected not to see that much until we got a great fright as a huge and very determined lioness crossed the street and far too soon disappeared in the bush and only allowed us one single shot.



WoW – Our first cat sightings since an eternity so we thought but once more this is no complaint it was simply because during our first week we saw that much that we already knew one time it will getting slower as a daily jack pot is simply not realistic. We also stopped at the low water bridge close to Balule and stayed there to enjoy the smells and the sound of the strongly flowing Olifants river.

Until we then reached the camp a lot of zebras and wildebeests crossed our path and now nearly all of them already reserved themselves a place under a shady bush or tree.



20 minutes prior to 2 o’clock I entered the reception of Olifants camp and I always will not understand why such a short distance of around 100 km took us 8 hours, obviously the Kruger hours will click differently. The receptionist was so friendly and already handed us over the key for No. 9 in which we already stayed 2008. Although the river view from that bungalow is breathtaking, however, the dragging from car to the bungalow over the steep steps was a bit exhausting and deserved a well-earned ice cream and hot coffee whilst enjoying the view – Sigh.

Close to our bungalow lots of marulas had fallen down from a tree and after we heard some rustling we even spotted something well camouflaged moving there – Besides some very friendly vervets which were feeding on the marulas also a lizard which we wanted already captured a long time ago was satisfying his hunger on one of the fruits



and it even came closer and closer and got better and better visible for us.



As we would only stay one single night at Olifants we wanted to make most of the area and so we decided to leave camp already around 4.00 o’clock to do another huge loop via the S89. First two stops were for a short look around the N’wamanzi look out point and the high water bridge crossing the Olifants where a lovely herd of elephants was about to feed on the reeds in the river. Again lots of giraffes were favouring this area too and could be nearly found everywhere during our drive on the S89



as well as the now again starting to run around francolins and also a lot of white-backed vultures in the obligatory dead trees came across.



At the spot where in earlier years the Ngotso weir was situated now a huge meadow sprout all over the place and a large family of baboons could be found out of which most of the members were still taking their afternoon nap and were still in deep sleep and a lone waterbuck joined the group and was grazing – It was a lovely scene and a lot of cars stopped and enjoyed it. A pity was that it meanwhile was extreme cloudy with some grey ones in between and the light was getting worse and worser.

Our intention was to maybe meet again the lioness which we spotted earlier that day and nearly at the same spot she came across already a lot of cars were stopping and to our greatest delight after we joined them some cute fluffy faces were looking from behind a bush close to where Timon stopped the car.



First we only saw the two smaller ones and later also one of the older siblings joined the younger ones



and also started to pay a visit to the cars which were admiring them.



So we finally found by mistake the famous hyaena den on that road and it was a pleasure to watch them as with every new car which arrived at that spot they disappeared immediately after the bush and the minute the engine stopped they popped more than curiously out again



but all in all they were not that shy,



however, these huge metallic things were a bit weird and it is better to be on the safe side.

to be continued……

When it was quiet in the cars, besides of course the unmistakably clicking of the cameras the cute fluffy ones even came closer and took an extreme close look.



Finally mom or the babysitter appeared from behind the bush too and suddenly all of them were so close together that we could captured them all on one picture – Please do not overlook one of the smaller ones under Mom’s belly.



It was again one of those days where the previous part of the day was a bit quiet and when you are about to be late for the gate then something amazing came across.



I do not lie when saying that obviously nearly all people who stayed at Olifants spent the last hour until the gate closes at this sighting although it was never disturbing with all the cars around as all leave enough space for potentially newcomers and for the hyaenas too.



After quite a while even mom calmed down and laid down in the open like a diva at least it looked so but we as hyaena lovers enjoyed this sighting again tremendously



although it was meanwhile again getting later and later and once more we started again to watch with one eye carefully the watch and the other was glued behind our cameras.



One of the cars which left earlier even came back and stayed again a while as one of the passengers obviously did not take enough pictures.



Also a hyaena can wear a stylish Mohican hairdo – When there is sometime a hyaena with a pink or purple one will come across, okay that would we made think!



Not to be that late again we decided to leave these cute fluffies although we could have sat there endlessly.



A short visit we spent once more on our way back to camp on the low water bridge close to Balule but due to the high water level of the Olifants there was nothing to be seen although these white-backed vultures simply had to be captured



and this marabou sunset simply was amazing and we expanded our drive already nearly to maximum as the light again started to fade already



gladly that this little cute steenbok stopped, turned around and stood motionless and allow us even two or three clicks until same ran away – If same had moved I am sure that the picture would have come out blurred.



We made it once more right in time and we made us comfortable with a cold one on our verandah and sat there until it was totally pitch dark and it was not that easy to leave this spot with the sounds of the heavily flowing Olifants far down but we decided to have dinner in the new restaurant complex and we must say it was great.

Not only the atmosphere under the huge fig tree on the wooden verandah with the hunting bats flying and buzzing around the heads of the guests but also the food itself was great and the service extreme courteous and you even could decide between the buffet dinner or à la carte.

We felt once more a bit sorry that we only could stay this year one night there as and here I repeat myself again Olifants was the very first camp we ever stayed in Kruger and also the roads are always a more than lovely drive and on top the view – Simply Wow and sigh.

Once more we sat again with a glass of wine on our verandah and enjoyed the night sounds and simply the moment itself.

Friday, 25. February 2011 – Olifants – Bateleur

Today we stayed a bit longer in camp as we just wanted to enjoy the sunrise over the Olifants river and with that view from high above we simply could not leave that early as normal. Obviously nearly all the other people in camp thought the same today as we were still one of the first who started to pack and leave.

One of our favourite drives in the entire park is the S44 following the Olifants and then the S93/46 following the Letaba river so needless to say that we took this direction and were rewarded with another sunset on that road.



Somewhere on that road one of the beautiful animals on Earth came across accompanied by two lovely ladies – a nyala bull and his harem.



As these antelopes are not that often seen in the South and we also thought that this might be the one and only sighting of these magnificent antelopes we stayed with them extremely long and moreover the place where they stayed was fantastically visible from the place where we parked the car and it was as if we were looking down from a balcony although they were a bit far away.



One of the females kept the entire time we stopped there on the ground and was obviously still a bit sleepy but Mr. Magnificent and his charming lady stayed close together and it was obvious too that they enjoyed the presence of each other and of course the one from the oxpeckers too.

K1378

A bit later she also decided that it was time for another morning nap and laid down although he obviously had other things in mind and always walked around her and rubbed his head with hers but she did not show any interest.

The whole time this sighting lasted we were the only car there but as we still had a long way to drive we finally had to say good bye to them. Next stop was the look out point overlooking the Olifants river and there we soaked in everything via each cell of our skin and once more could have spent the whole day there. The drive along the S93 following the Letaba river was nice as we drove each and every loop, however, quiet as never before and besides families of fast running guinea fowls only this loud grey lourie could be discovered.



For sure that majestic baobab on that road had to be admired and whilst turning into the S46 the sightings got better and better.


to be continued......

Good to hear that Bushbaby and now as promised......


First a hyaena clan was suddenly facing us whilst driving around a corner and all of them appeared very determined and in no case skittish.



They were five of them and they were huge and as Kobie Kruger wrote in her book that she always gets a fright when she realize how huge lions are, well I always get a fright when I see a hyaena due to their size with nearly the same shoulder level as a lion.



One single blade of grass caught their attention and all of them started to sniff very excitedly and they obviously just missed something amazingly



Some of them even came closer to our car but gladly none of them was interested in our tires and any other part of our car while the others were still interested in this extreme lekker smelling grass and it was extreme difficult for them to leave same.



They must walked though spider webs as one of them had the whole time the remains of a web on her face – She did not care about that - simply typical hyaena and that is why I love them! It is not the look it is the character that is important!



This is for sure one of my favourite pictures of the whole bunch we took and I call it “The two gossips”.



Gladly for us they still stayed and so we relished the sighting itself and Timon was in his element in taking picture after picture moreover as they were so close.



However, far too soon for our liking one after the other set themselves in motion and carried on walking into the direction from where we just came whilst from the back another car joined them.



We first considered in turning the car around and to follow them until they will disappear but as we got our shots we decided to carry on our way moreover as now also a car from the other direction turned up and they would more or less disappear further down the road into the bush with such a commotion around them.



However, we stayed as where we were until also the very last one of them – obviously a really looking pregnant one – started to follow her clan in the typical hyaena style. Not only the wild dog magnets but also the hyaena magnets did work more than very well during this trip as we saw during our earlier trips only glimpses of them.



In more than good mood we carried on only to stop after a couple of seconds as a road block in form of a few buffaloes made us stop but unfortunately the Mopani bushes were too dense and thick in that area so once they crossed the street they were no longer to be seen.



Approaching now slowly Engelhardt dam the area is getting more open and on one plain field we spotted two moving spots but after a further closer inspection via binoculars we discovered our never seen bird No. 12 during that trip – a Temminck’s Courser -



busy in doing what they doing best, i.e. running around and WoW never saw such a fast running bird before so the German translation of the name which I would translate literally with “Temminck running bird“ fitted more than perfectly.

A huge crocodile was already taking an excessive sunbath in the morning sun on a sandbank in the Letaba river and we so enjoyed the drives through all the loops circling around and leading you closer to the river where suddenly a field of impalas surprised us as they were spread all over the place and enjoying the morning sun.



A young ram was willing to pose nicely and who could resist when such big brown eyes are eying you????



Now the vegetation was getting thicker again and suddenly wildebeests were spread all over the place although most of them were already hidden in the Mopane forest as the morning sun got with every minute hotter and hotter but this cute and definitely not very old calf was simply too gorgeous and eyed us suspiciously.



Only around the next corner compared to the little wildebeest calf these giants appeared. In a threesome they crossed slowly the road and with each step they got slower and slower so it took nearly endlessly until they reached the other side.



Where buffaloes are flies are not far and all of them were surrounded by flies but nevertheless we enjoyed their presence tremendously and also the rush of animals on this last stretch of the S46.

Relative close to Letaba camp you had to cross via the short cut a dry river and in a remaining puddle one of the hugest buffalo bulls I have ever was about to make himself comfortable for the rest of the day in a remaining puddle and whilst settled down he started to ruminate and let the oxpecker start their work. It was really an idyllic spot he had chosen with the thick vegetation around on his old days and we wished him all the best and carried on.

Around 9.00 o’clock we reached Letaba still early but already extreme hot so after a quick stop at the shop and the Elephant hall although visited several times and never getting bored we headed forward but sightingwise compared to the last stretch of the just driven road it was deadly quiet and not a single elephant could be spotted neither on the way to the high water bridge crossing the Letaba where we stopped as usual and enjoyed the extensive look around nor later on the H1-6 or on the Tsendze loop but believe me the grey masses appeared later on the scene on the Tropic of Capricorn loop but first still on the H1-6 on a remaining waterhole a buffalo mum and her obviously not yet very old young born came to drink and the calf kept nearly the whole time hidden behind mom although the whole sighting took place a bit too far away for some descent pictures we enjoyed it very much as moreover in a nearby dead tree we discovered a gymnogene – a pity that these birds stayed so far away from us during this trip.

A favourite of ours is always in that area the Tsendze loop and although we never had plenty of sightings there it is always a nice drive with some more than stunning views into the dry Tsendze which leads you at least for a short time away from the predominate mopane bushes.

Right in the beginning we spotted an ostrich couple and although the air was already starting to glimmer due to the heat



and although we only partly saw their heads popping out of the thick and green vegetation we liked the sighting of this relatively rarely seen bird in Kruger – at least for us – especially with the landscape in the background.



to be continued with the drive on the tropic of Capricorn loop..........

and they obviously enjoyed the presence of each other as well as there were evident tender moments between them discovered.



A bit later we came across a group of zebras



and then it was again time to hit one of our favourite loops in that area – the tropic in Capricorn loop – and consequently ellie country but before we hit that road the S50 had to be driven with all the Nshawu waterholes. Right in the beginning we captured a yellow-billed hornbill which just caught a praying mantis. We wanted always very much a picture of such an insect but for sure none of one which just ended as kill.



The rest of the drive between Nshawu No. 1 and 2 was a ride through mopane fields, leaves and bushes only interrupted by a group of 3 tsessebes and 3 zebras which were unfortunately all a bit far and nearly hidden in the bushes and then suddenly something huge and grey emerged from between the dense vegetation and Timon’s lens was too long for that short distance.



Gladly it was one of the gentler giants and he was only interested in feeding and munched happily away and even started to day dream in the midday heat and ignored us completely.



Although I love these grey masses but when they do suddenly appear out of nowhere which definitely often happen on that road we or better to say I do always get nearly a heart attack. Suddenly another animal popped out of the bushes and same was obviously on a mission



although same carried on in walking slowly on the road but she obviously knew where to go and even allowed us some nice shots and close ups where we discovered all the annoying flies buzzing around her head.



Now she was right close to our car door and it was a pity that it was a single one although this shot with the colour of the grass is one of my favourites



and after another quick click she was already vanished.



This was already the third time during three different visits that we saw on that road or in the vincinity of Tihongonyeni these antelopes which obviously do favour this area and do allow already some excited forecast for our stay in a couple of weeks at Mopani camp.

Timon’s feathered friends came also across and forced him to stop for this stunning brown snake eagle in a tree.



At Nshawu 3 we made a break as we saw far in the distance two ellie bulls approaching this waterhole and as same was far enough away from where we parked we let them come closer.



Although in this case we were even a bit sad that the sighting took place so far away as both looked like very promising tuskers to me. Meanwhile it was once more extreme hot and humid and the weather reminded me on last year’s one where we drove exactly the same drive and where heaven opened the gates over night and flooded the Shingwedzi river……..That explained also the flickering heat which made the photography a bit like a challenge.



We stayed until also the last one of them walked off and as no other one of them appeared we headed forward only to stop shortly again at Nshawu marsh as there another one of them nearly ran in a very determined way closer to the water already waving us a "Hello" with his trunk.....



and we thought that he was not in the mood for our company and we already start to feel a bit uncomfortable but gladly he was only interested in the water and finally started with more than pleasure to drink - I love this picture with the typical landscape in the background.



A longer break was already planned for Tihongonyeni and also this year we were not disappointed although something “very” special like the roan or the close tsessebes as we could spot there last year was not to be seen. Although another one of the “larger” - if that is ever possible - elephants was taking a nap with trunk on tusk close to the waterhole and although his right tusk was broken he still looked like a tusker to us.



A lot of zebras and ostriches were also around and enjoyed quenching their thirst



whilst our ellie friend turned himself around and put his trunk into the water tank and we already though he might started to drink as well but nothing more happened. He stood there immovable and as after 10 minutes he did not move a single centimeter it was obvious that he just wanted to cool his trunk and the tiredness was bigger than his thirst although we could not hear him snoring.



We kept an eye on him whilst watching the zebras and the ostrich cock and his harem.



Finally Mr. Big set himself in motion but only turned once more around and pressed his bum against the pontoon and kept on snoozing – Not that he fell whilst taking a well deserved nap.



Although he looked funny in the way he presented himself to us we could very well understand him because after nearly the whole day on the road and with the predominate heat and humidity today we also were in the mood for a short nap but before getting too tired we left one of our favourite water holes in the entire park and carried on our journey as it was now meanwhile already afternoon.


to be continued with an unusual bird behaviour.........and more feathered friends